Circular Consumption Practices as Matters of Care
1. Circular Consumption Practices as Matters of Care
Nina Mesiranta1 · Malla Mattila1
· Outi Koskinen1
· Elina Närvänen1
Received: 22 November 2023 / Accepted: 24 November 2024 / Published online: 6 December 2024
© The Author(s) 2024
1.1. Abstract
While a circular economy (CE) paradigm shift has gained significant momentum among academics, practitioners, and policymakers, theory regarding its social aspects remains scant, especially theory based on an ethical, micro-level perspective. Circular consumption, referring to those consumption practices that aim to extend the lifetimes of objects and materials, involves ethical considerations. However, everyday circular consumption and its ethics have not gained a foothold in the CE literature. This article builds on the existing circular consumption literature by drawing insights from the posthuman feminist theorising of care, shifting the focus of care from humans to the complex relations between humans and nonhumans and conceptualising circular consumption practices as matters of care. This conceptualisation, which follows a thinking-with-theory approach, is based on empirical material constructed in two research projects focusing on frontrunner consumers in terms of circular consumption in Finland: food waste reduction and circular clothing consumption. We identify circular consumption as care by introducing three distinct perspectives: care as tinkering, care as affective practices, and care as ethico-political action. We show that approaching circular consumption practices as matters of care, while not always easy or straightforward, is an attempt to make consumption better: more attentive, inclusive, durable, and enjoyable. Our findings emphasise the interconnected nature of circular practices, the constant performativity of circular consumption, and nonhumans as crucial stakeholders in care relations. Consequently, we offer an alternative to technocentric CE perspectives and a way to promote a sustainable world through care.
Keywords Care · Circular consumption · Feminist ethics · Ethics of care · Posthumanism · Qualitative study
1.2. Introduction
The transition to a circular economy (CE) is one of the central political goals of the European Union (Calisto Friant et al., 2021). CE has been defined as a systemic framework intended to provide solutions for pressing sustainability problems by replacing the end-of-life concept with reducing, reusing, recycling, and recovering materials throughout production, distribution, and consumption processes (Kirchherr
et al., 2017, p. 299). Despite increasing efforts to boost CE, a circularity gap is widening (Circle Economy Foundation, 2024). The gap denotes to the fact that while CE is gaining popularity and traction in policymaking, academia and businesses alike, global circularity (the share of secondary materials consumed by the global economy) is in decline, and the consumption of material resources continues to accelerate (Circle Economy Foundation, 2024). One reason for this may be that the social aspects to CE have received less attention than its economic and environmental aspects (Zavos et al., 2024) and, especially, ethical and moral aspects (Murray et al., 2017).
In this study, we focus on everyday circular consumption and its ethics, which have rarely been considered in the CE literature (for exceptions, see Conduit et al., 2023; Lehtokunnas et al., 2022; Rabiu & Jaeger-Erben, 2022). This is surprising given that circular consumption entails various ethical considerations, trade-offs, and conflicts (Lehtokunnas et al., 2022; Sutcliffe, 2022). Circular consumption refers to those consumption practices that are
✉ Nina Mesiranta
nina.mesiranta@tuni.fi
Malla Mattila
malla.mattila@tuni.fi
Outi Koskinen
outi.koskinen@tuni.fi
Elina Närvänen
elina.narvanen@tuni.fi
1 Faculty of Management and Business, Tampere University, 33014 Tampere, Finland
conducted to extend the lifetimes of objects and materials (see also Rabiu & Jaeger-Erben, 2022). We view circular consumption as a subtype of ethical consumption, which we understand, in line with Garcia-Ruiz and Rodriguez-Lluesma (2014), as including “all types of practices as long as they are integrated into the individual’s search for a morally good life and contribute to the good of the community in which she lives” (p. 525). In circular consumption, the environmental aspects of ethics become highlighted (Carrington et al., 2021) because it is focused on the concrete use of materials in everyday consumption in less resource-intensive ways than in a linear consumerist society. Thus, the environmental impacts of one’s consumption habits are central, rather than, for example, considerations related to the corporate social responsibility of the company one is purchasing from. Furthermore, we focus on ethics, which we define as mundane, situated negotiations of various goods and bads. Our definition is inspired by Mol’s work (2008; see also Mol et al., 2010), which shows that enacting ‘good’ or ‘bad’ care is a practical accomplishment attained by carefully attuning oneself to specific circumstances. Rather than adopting absolute definitions (i.e. good versus bad care), we use the plural form ‘goods and bads’. This phrasing highlights the ongoing work required to determine what is ethical or unethical in a given situation. Approaching ethics in this way resonates with our focus on everyday consumption practices and enables us to respond to the recent call for research in the circular consumption literature that addresses how consumers are “made to feel responsible and come to express an ethics of care” (Hobson et al., 2021, p. 6).
An ethics of care perspective (Fisher & Tronto, 1990; Tronto, 1993, 2013) has been adopted by ethical consumption scholars, such as members of the Care Collective. In their Care Manifesto, it has been noted that the world we live in is structurally careless and that to create a sustainable, inclusive future, more care is needed at multiple levels on the part of various actors (Chatzidakis et al., 2020). We join this discussion and continue the Hobson et al.’s (2021) call to explore circular consumption through the lens of the ethics of care. We argue that care does exist within the circular consumption practices of frontrunner consumers who interact with various consumption objects on a daily basis to extend their lifetimes. These frontrunners have actively sought to change their own everyday consumption practices and move towards circularity and have shared and discussed these practices with others either on social media or in their local community. Frontrunners’ circular consumption practices have developed over the course of their lives because of complex processes, including “socialisation experiences, and continually evolving personal relationships, social roles, material contexts and forms of capital” (Greene & Royston, 2022, p. 272; see also Ortega Alvarado et al., 2023).
In the CE, materials and resources are constantly changing form. They can be processed into products that are repaired or reused before being transformed into materials that can be utilised again (Godfrey et al., 2022). These processes are reciprocal. Materials and the devices and appliances with which they are circulated have effects on people, enabling and constraining circular consumption (Mattila et al., 2019), while human actions influence the lives of these materials. Thus, when considering care and ethics in circular consumption, the active roles of materials, objects, devices, and technologies must be acknowledged. We argue that this leads to a balanced understanding of CE not only in the onto-epistemological sense but also in terms of ethics, as it shows how nonhumans are affected by human consumption. By doing so, we also join the discussion begun by Sayers et al. (2022) on the role of nonhumans in business ethics, which uses a feminist lens to question dualist thinking about the mastery by humans over nonhumans.
To acknowledge the active role of more-than-human actors, this article draws on posthuman feminist theorising of care (Mol, 2008, 2021; Puig de la Bellacasa, 2010). This tradition conceptualises care in relation to more-than-human worlds, allowing often-silenced and unnoticed sociomaterial relations to become visible. In this theorising, the focus is shifted from the ethics of care to matters of care, which are understood as nonnormative obligations that consist of hands-on labours of caring, affects, and affection, as well as ethico-political dimensions (Puig de la Bellacasa, 2011, 2017). In practice, these matters of care may include, for example, the potentially anxiety-inducing task of rummaging in the fridge for soon-to-expire foodstuffs because one thinks food waste should be avoided. Care is seen as weaving a messy, multispecies ‘web of life’, emphasising the interdependency of all living beings and the necessity of care for these beings to live together ‘as well as possible’ (Puig de la Bellacasa, 2017, p. 4). This makes it possible to decentre human agencies and pay attention to how human and nonhuman beings become entangled in complex relations of care. Consequently, we can appreciate how consumers and the stuff of consumption become involved in various doings and sayings of care or the lack thereof.
In this article, we ask the following question: How are circular consumption practices enacted as matters of care? We adopt a thinking-with-theory approach (Jackson & Mazzei, 2011, 2013) wherein the posthuman feminist theorising of care shaped our engagement with the empirical world. Our empirical material was constructed in two research projects in Finland focusing on frontrunner consumers in different forms of circular consumption: food waste reduction and circular clothing consumption. These two complementary contexts helped us to conceptually develop our interpretation of circular consumption practices as matters of care. The article contributes primarily to literature on circular
consumption by extending our understanding of consumer work (Hobson et al., 2021; Korsunova et al., 2022; Rabiu & Jaeger-Erben, 2022, 2024; Sutcliffe, 2022) and the ethical and moral aspects of circular consumption (Conduit et al., 2023; Lehtokunnas et al., 2022), as well as introducing the sociomaterial approach. Furthermore, the article has implications for practitioners regarding how circular consumption practices, as matters of care, can be supported holistically.
Next, we discuss the previous literature on circular consumption, followed by introducing matters of care as our theoretical perspective. Then, we introduce our empirical approach and discuss the three dimensions of care regarding the circular consumption of food and clothing. Finally, we discuss the implications of our findings.
1.3. Conceptualising Care in Circular Consumption
1.4. Reviewing the Literature on Circular Consumption
Despite increasing research and policy attention, the CE literature has long been dominated by technocentric and ecologically modernist perspectives (Calisto Friant et al., 2021; Hobson & Lynch, 2016; Zavas et al., 2024). However, there is an emerging stream of literature on the role of everyday consumption in the transition to the CE (Camacho-Otero et al., 2018; Hobson et al., 2021). For materials to circulate in the economy, consumers are required to reduce the number of new purchases, repair and reuse their existing products, and recycle materials effectively. As simple as it may sound, adopting these new circular solutions in consumers' everyday lives is not an easy endeavour, irrespective of their intentions and motivations (Rabiu & Jaeger-Erben, 2024).
Drawing on the sociology of consumption and human geography, various authors have highlighted the fact that everyday social practices, consisting of interlinking elements, such as materials, meanings, and competencies (Shove et al., 2012), are at stake when considering consumers and consumption in the context of CE (Camacho-Otero et al., 2020; Greene et al., 2024; Mylan et al., 2016). Circular consumption can thus be defined as enacting practices that reduce resource use and prolong the lifetimes of material resources (Rabiu & Jaeger-Erben, 2022).
Previous research on circular practices has emphasised the labour, time, and effort required of consumers in a CE, which are labelled consumer work (Hobson et al., 2021; Rabiu & Jaeger-Erben, 2024; Sutcliffe, 2022). These studies highlight the fact that this domestic work is unpaid, not necessarily distributed evenly between consumers, and dependent on access to material infrastructures. Thus, it is apparent that consumer work can be burdensome and involve negative feelings and trade-offs for consumers. These trade-offs may
occur due to contradictory social norms that guide consumption, such as how people are expected to use their time for various everyday activities (Sutcliffe, 2022), or the value assigned to various goals, such as health, cleanliness, and family well-being, by society (Camacho-Otero et al., 2020; Lehtokunnas et al., 2022; Mylan et al., 2016). This raises the following question: Why would consumers still be willing to engage in circular practices?
Only a few studies have proposed adopting an ethical or moral perspective to understand circular consumption. Conduit et al. (2023) focus on reconceptualising consumers in a CE as user-stewards and propose that people have an intrinsic motivation to act responsibly and protect the resources surrounding them. However, Lehtokunnas et al. (2022) claim that this kind of responsibility and ethical subjectivity are not innate in human beings but, rather, must be constituted as a moral project in everyday life. Acknowledging that consumption in a CE has this ethical dimension does not mean returning to an individualistic view (people cannot simply decide to act ethically). Instead, it allows new ways of examining the mundane, situated negotiations of various goods and bads in everyday life. Furthermore, this situatedness indicates that ethical action in circular consumption is not static or fixed but, rather, continuously formed in relation with the surrounding world, including other people but also more-than-human creatures and things. According to Hobson et al. (2021), circular consumption involves the ethics of care, which is why this perspective is particularly fruitful. While circular consumption research has addressed care in its literal sense (taking care of objects; Conduit et al., 2023; Godfrey et al., 2022), it has not provided theory about the ethics of care. We argue that the ethics of care extends circular consumption research on consumer work and circular practices by offering an alternative framing for these efforts.
1.5. Introducing the Ethics of Care Perspective
The ethics of care refers to a feminist approach in which relations and practices of care and responsibility are considered a fundamental feature of all human social life (Robinson, 1999; Tronto, 1993). Since the 1980s, the ethics of care has highlighted the importance of the relationality and interdependency of actors, as well as vulnerability and embodiment, often contrasting them with rights-based approaches that root ethics in abstract rationality and autonomy (Gilligan, 1982; Tronto, 1993; see also Godin, 2022). According to a popular definition created by Fisher and Tronto (1990, p. 40), care "includes everything that we do to maintain, continue, and repair our 'world' so that we can live in it as well as possible". This definition expands the web of caring to include not only human relationships but also relationships between humans and the environment or the biosphere.
Tronto's (1993, 2013) phases of care portrays care as taking place between a caregiver and a care receiver and outlines how care proceeds from awareness to action and becomes aligned with moral principles (e.g. Parsons et al., 2021b; Pizzetti et al., 2024; Shaw et al., 2016, 2017). Relying on Tronto's foundational work, ethical consumption researchers have portrayed care as dynamic and systemic in nature. Shaw et al. (2017), in their empirically grounded study, propose that care involves interdependencies between multiple stakeholders, such as consumers, producers, and retailers. Furthermore, Chatzidakis and Shaw (2018) propose a multilevel approach to care, highlighting the fact that sustainability initiatives require the consideration of caring at multiple scales, from the individual scale to the home, urban, national, and global scales. Importantly, the recent Care Manifesto calls for integrating care at all levels of society (Chatzidakis et al., 2020). Zooming in on environmental sustainability issues, the role of nature, as an important stakeholder in care, is highlighted (Chatzidakis et al., 2020; Wahlen & Stroude, 2023). As argued by the Care Collective, "as living creatures, we exist alongside and in connection with all other human and nonhuman beings, and also remain dependent upon the systems and networks, animate and inanimate, that sustain life across the planet" (Chatzidakis et al., 2020, p. 33). Building on this notion, more-than-human creatures and things should be integrated as part of the vision for universal care. We extend this idea by moving from the ethics of care to posthuman matters of care, which we discuss below.
1.6. Approaching Care in Terms of Matters of Care
In this article, we adopt a posthumanist approach to the ethics of care. In brief, posthumanist approaches emphasise the interdependency of the human and material worlds, questioning the human-centricity of social scientific research and, instead, mapping how understandings of humans as self-contained, rational, and sovereign are maintained at the expense of other nonhuman beings and environments (e.g. Bennett, 2010; Haraway, 2008, 2016; Puig de la Bellacasa, 2017). These issues are by no means incompatible with the ethics of care approach, as detailed above. However, in recent years, a handful of scholars interested in studying care and the more-than-human have crafted theoretical resources that highlight, within a posthumanist perspective, the interdependencies of all things and beings and the situated, context-specific nature of care (e.g. Latimer, 2018; Mol, 2008; Mol et al., 2010; Puig de la Bellacasa, 2017). To reflect our emphasis on the nonhuman within care, we draw theoretical inspiration from this body of work and focus on 'matters of care' (a term borrowed from Puig de la Bellacasa, ). The term 'matters of care' refers to the everyday doings and sayings aimed at sustaining and supporting relations that
bring together the human and more-than-human 'as well as possible'. Indeed, centring the hands-on labour of caring in this way shows that focusing only on humans will lead to a severely restricted view. Caring means engaging with not only other humans but also the stuff of everyday life, other animals, and the environments we humans are embedded in. Consequently, ethics become grounded in "sociotechnical assemblages in mundane, ordinary, and pragmatic ways" (Puig de la Bellacasa, 2017, p. 67).
Some studies have started to map how nonhuman beings, materials, and objects feature in care and consumption. Harbers et al. (2002) have shown that in the sociomaterial practices of a nursing home, food and drink are not just means of physical survival, but instead "media for care—they [food and drink] do care" (p. 217, italics original). Consequently, they contend that if we want to understand how various goods and bads are enacted within care practices, it is crucial to attend to the materialities of care (Harbers et al., 2002; see also Schwarz, 2018). Analysing assemblages of care that involve items for babies, such as blankets and soft toys, Waight and Boyer (2018) have also argued that paying attention to the more-than-human produces rich and nuanced understandings of care relations. They note that these relations are reciprocal. Matter 'cares' for children, and mothers care for matter. Finally, a strand of the literature has touched on the complexity of animals as objects of care within practices of meat consumption, highlighting the fact that caring cannot be reduced to clear-cut, feel-good doings (Bruckner & Kowasch, 2019; Ibáñez Martín & Mol, 2022; Koskinen, 2023b). It seems that research focused on the more-than-human, care, and consumption is somewhat sparse, being spread across various empirical contexts, and seemingly disconnected from the more prominent stream of research on the ethics of care and consumption discussed above. Nonetheless, this constellation of research demonstrates that dismantling the human-centricity of care relations can offer valuable insights into the ethics of consumption as practical, reciprocal, and situated.
We build on this nascent literature by engaging with María Puig de la Bellacasa's work on matters of care in more-than-human worlds (Puig de la Bellacasa, 2011, 2012, 2017, 2019). This helps us explicate how circular consumption practices, as matters of care, entail "affective, ethical, and hands-on agencies of practical and material consequence" (Puig de la Bellacasa, 2017, p. 4). Puig de la Bellacasa (2017) builds on Fisher and Tronto's (1990) definition of care by crafting a posthumanist ethical project in which care is not a neutral analytical lens one can utilise but, rather, an intervention premised on recognising the vital necessity of care for multispecies worlds. Consequently, working with care "means standing for sustainable and flourishing relations, not merely survivalist or instrumental ones" (Puig de la Bellacasa, 2017, p. 70). Puig de la Bellacasa's work
therefore enables us to approach care as a messy 'web of life', wherein multispecies beings and creatures together construct and (re)negotiate ways of living together 'as well as possible' (Puig de la Bellacasa, 2017, p. 4). This decentres human agencies as the focus of inquiry while still remaining cognisant of "the predicaments and inheritances" of extant human doings (Puig de la Bellacasa, 2017, p. 2).
More specifically, Puig de la Bellacasa (2017) conceptualises care using three dimensions: labour/work (the practical doings that maintain 'as well as possible' relations), affect/affections (from love and joy to frustration and shame), and ethics/politics (caring as situated, practical interventions, not universal normative judgments). While these dimensions may not be equally important in all situations or even interact harmoniously, all three are needed to enact care as a vital and intricate phenomenon that sustains life (Puig de la Bellacasa, 2017). In this article, we operationalise these three dimensions with the help of various theoretical resources to gain an in-depth understanding of care as a more-than-human matter. First, we frame labour/work as tinkering. Articulated within the context of care by Annemarie Mol (2008), tinkering refers to care as situated, experimental doings aimed at amelioration. Because the terrains of care are varied and changing, it is impossible to define, once and for all, how to carry out caring; thus, there is the need for tinkering. Second, we approach affect/affections through affective practices, as developed by Margaret Wetherell (2012). She emphasises that affective practices consist of both socio-cultural meaning making and embodied, sensual experiences. This makes them an apt concept for tracing affects within consumption practices (Koskinen, 2023a). Finally, to grasp the ethics/politics of care, we follow Puig de la Bellacasa's (2010) notion of "the ethical as a social practice", which connects the personal to the collective (p. 163). If care is seen as mundane doings necessary for maintaining our worlds, it becomes infused with ethics and politics in ways that dismantle traditional divisions between the public and the private. Before discussing these dimensions, we introduce our empirical materials, along with our thinking-with-theory approach, which represents an alternative to traditional qualitative inquiry.
1.6.1. Adopting a Thinking-with-Theory Approach
1.7. Research Approach
The research approach adopted in this article is conceptually dominant and inspired by a turn towards post-qualitative inquiry in the social sciences (Mazzei, 2021; St. Pierre, 2021). This turn has its roots in feminist critiques of the dominant modes of knowledge production, which rely on a realistic depiction of qualitative data as something to
be collected, analysed, and systematically represented by researchers. Instead, post-qualitative inquiry is seen as something that "happens in the middle of things, in the threshold, as theoretical concepts and data constitute one another in an analytic practice of thinking with theory" (Mazzei, 2021, p. 198). The thinking-with-theory approach was developed by Jackson and Mazzei (2011, 2013) who argued that researchers should not be bound by method but, rather, be able to improvise as they engage with a problem and concepts. For us, the concept of care and the associated posthuman feminist theorising provided resources to think with. They mediated how we posed questions to the interviewees and what we focused on when reading our empirical material. For us, data did not passively represent the world. Instead, when engaging with the data through thinking with theory, the data encouraged us to theorise about them as matters of care. Thus, the data were constructing us, and we were constructing the data (see also Gherardi, 2019).
1.8. Empirical Materials
The empirical materials presented in this article were constructed in two research projects in Finland that aimed to investigate and advance circular consumption practices. The first project focused on reducing food waste, and the second focused on circular clothing consumption. Finland has been ranked as the second most sustainable country according to the Sustainable Competitiveness Ranking (SolAbility, 2023). In Finland, the transition to the CE has been highly visible in public discussions in the past few years. For example, the Finnish Government has set the aim of transforming the Finnish economy into a circular one by 2035 through a strategic programme for CE initiated in 2021 (Ministry of the Environment, 2024). In 2023, second-hand fashion became the largest product category in consumer-to-consumer online commerce in Finland, with an increase of 144% from 2015 (Finnish Commerce Federation, 2023). Food waste reduction has become visible in Finland through company, policy, and social media initiatives (see, e.g. Mesiranta et al., 2022; Närvänen et al., 2018; Sutinen, 2020). These include a national Food Waste Week campaign organised annually in September, special sections in supermarkets for soon-to-expire food items, as well as local food redistribution terminals and mobile applications focused on rescuing food that would otherwise be wasted.
Both food waste (e.g. Närvänen et al., 2020) and the clothing industry (e.g. Berg et al., 2020) have significant sustainability impacts, with associated environmental (e.g. the wastage of land, water, and energy) and social concerns (e.g. the increasing divide between affluent and low-income people and working conditions for employees). Therefore, it is essential to find solutions quickly to mitigate these harmful effects. These two contexts were, however, purposefully
chosen for this study to exemplify the various ways circular consumption is enacted as care. Both food and clothing are necessary in our everyday lives as humans, and we have numerous encounters with them every day. Thus, we were able to creatively engage with the data, as recommended in post-qualitative inquiry (Mazzei, 2021), from the perspective of our own (bodily) experiences and our experiences as researchers conducting empirical studies on circular consumption for several years (see also Gherardi, 2019). Both food and clothing are closely related to our bodies. Food is ingested, while clothing covers the body. From a caring perspective, food and clothing consumption becomes entangled with caring for others, whether that caring is manifested towards family members, fashion industry workers, or non-human animals. However, these contexts build on different timeframes. As pointed out by Mattila et al., (2019), food waste reduction is “a mission to act before the inevitable happens” (p. 1622), before food changes from edible to inedible (or becomes waste) through complex interactions with other more-than-human creatures and things, such as mould. The lifetimes of clothes are much longer, which enables
items to be worn and cared for by multiple human and non-human actors (see also Närvänen et al., 2023).
The empirical materials focus on who we perceive to be frontrunner consumers in Finland. Using three datasets (see Table 1), we investigated three main groups of consumers: (1) food bloggers participating in a food waste reduction campaign, (2) members of a local home economics non-profit organisation who were eager to learn food waste reduction practices, and (3) sustainable fashion influencers posting regularly about sustainable fashion and circular clothing consumption practices on social media. These groups have all sought to change their own food or clothing consumption practices and move towards circularity, and they have shared and discussed related practices with others, either on social media or within their local community. Overall, our empirical materials derived from the research projects mentioned above can be characterised as ethnographic, with multiple types of data, including online and offline personal interviews (18 in total); observations of online social media postings and their comments (500+ in total); and participant observation (cooking workshops with 31 consumers in total,
Table 1 Summary of the empirical materials
| Dataset | Short description |
|---|---|
| 1: Social media campaign for food waste reduction | Several food bloggers in Finland initiated a social media campaign in 2012 to increase awareness of the food waste issue and offer tips for their readers regarding how to reduce food waste. Initially, the bloggers planned the campaign to run for five weeks in 2012. However, the bloggers have continued to post food waste-related content using the ‘from waste to delicacy’ tag for several years since then. For example, the campaign’s Facebook community was active until 2021, with over 5,000 followers. The generated material comprises seven food bloggers’ personal in-depth interviews, where were conducted mostly offline in 2016. Six of the bloggers were assumed by the researchers to be female. One of the blogs was maintained jointly by a couple (assumed by the researchers to be male and female). The average length of the interviews was 103 min. The interviews were audio recorded and transcribed verbatim. The material also includes netnographic observations of approximately 300 blog posts and related comments (collected in 2016–2019) taken from the interviewee’s blogs. |
| 2: Food waste cooking workshops | Four food waste cooking workshops were organised in collaboration with the local Martha organisation and their members in 2018 at the Martha organisation’s kitchen. In the workshops, each lasting about three hours, the consumers (31 in total, all assumed by the researchers to be female) designed and cooked meals using food items that are commonly in danger of being thrown away, such as overripe vegetables. The researchers actively observed the consumers while they engaged in the planning and cooking activities. Utilising a mobile ethnographic application, the researchers generated 149 short videos; 401 photos; 193 audio recording; including short consumer interviews and personal observations; and 154 short fieldnotes. |
| 3: Sustainable fashion influencers on social media | Immersion into the sustainable fashion influencer scene in Finland began in 2020 with observing and identifying potential research participants, for example, through following sustainable fashion hashtags or using snowball sampling. The social media content of the most suitable candidates was observed to ensure their social media content focused on sustainable fashion. The material consists of 11 in-depth interviews (lasting, on average, 96 min) with sustainable fashion influencers (all assumed by the researchers to be female), which were conducted as online interviews in 2020–2021. All interviews were audio recorded and transcribed verbatim. In addition, the material includes netnographic observation of the interviewed influencers’ social media accounts (mainly Instagram but also YouTube and TikTok) from 2020 to 2023. |
resulting in hundreds of short fieldnotes, videos, photos, and audio recordings). Consent to participate in the study was obtained from all consumers in either oral or written form.
1.9. Analysis and Interpretation
Our analysis and interpretation processes progressed interactively. We have previously published articles based on separate datasets (Kaivonen et al., 2024; Lehtokunnas et al., 2022; Mattila et al., 2019; Närvänen et al., 2021; Närvänen et al., 2018, 2023). In those articles, the focus was not on care but, rather, consumers' food waste reduction efforts or the role of frontrunners in advancing circular consumption. The generated knowledge and our embodied understandings of the phenomena led us to adopt the feminist ethics of care theory. For this study, we began by jointly discussing the adoption of the care perspective in consumer research on circular consumption. At that time, we had already immersed ourselves in the distributed, more-than-human agencies involved in consumers' food waste reduction (Mattila et al., 2019), which also facilitated the ethnographically informed generation of data. For example, during the observations at the workshops on cooking to reduce food waste, we attuned ourselves to observing the materials that the consumers used (Woodward, 2019). Also, following the principles of object interviews (Holmes, 2020; Woodward, 2019), we asked the sustainable fashion influencers to bring their favourite second-hand fashion item with them, encouraging them to talk about materials and objects.
The understanding gained from these research endeavours guided us to adopt the feminist care ethics perspective (Puig de la Bellacasa, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2017, 2019) as our theoretical reading device. In the process of 'plugging-in' (Jackson & Mazzei, 2011), we ultimately used various theories related to feminist care ethics. 'Plugging in' is a metaphor for connecting different theoretical 'plugs' to the empirical 'socket' to highlight different aspects of the core phenomenon. In addition to Maria Puig de la Bellacasa's work, we used Mol (2008) and Wetherell (2012) to think with our data, and we used our data to think with these theories.
Instead of the traditional qualitative coding of data, three of the co-authors repeatedly read through the empirical material, 'plugging-in' one dimension at a time to think with the data. Our focal question was as follows: How does care manifest as tinkering/affective practices/ethico-political action? By alternating between these perspectives and reading the same data according to multiple theorists (Puig de la Bellacasa, Mol, and Wetherell), we plugged the texts (data and theory) into one another (Jackson & Mazzei, 2013). For example, this plugging-in shifted our focus from merely identifying the agency of nonhumans to witnessing how they reciprocally participate in care relations. To help with this, we created a shared Word document in which all the insights
were gathered and all authors participated in the interpretation of the empirical material and theory. As Jackson and Mazzei (2011, p. 13) describe, we engaged in a "continuous process of making and unmaking" an assemblage of various theories, our empirical material, and our interpretations of them through "arranging, organizing and fitting together". As a result, we conceptualised circular consumption as care through the following three perspectives: care as tinkering, care as affective practices, and care as ethico-political action.
1.10. Findings
In this section, we elaborate on circular consumption as care, viewing care as tinkering, affective practices, and ethico-political action. The elaboration is based on our goal of thinking with theory and, consequently, the way in which we sensitised ourselves to posthuman feminist theorising of care, made interpretations using it, and the constructed empirical material. Throughout this section, we wish to show how care plays an important role in weaving together the tangled threads of consumption so that more circularity is achieved.
1.10.1. Care as Tinkering
The concept of tinkering denotes that care is highly situational and open to constant transformation. It is a continuous process of interactive doings and sayings aimed at finding ways to improve a given situation; in Mol's (2008) terms, it is a process of "trying, adjusting, and trying again" (pp. 18–20). Care as tinkering can be seen, therefore, as an experimental and groping process, in which the subject of care is active, not merely a passive object alongside other nonhuman beings (Mol, 2008; Molterer et al., 2020). This kind of understanding aligns with views that emphasise the vitality and fluidity of materials in their categorisations, as well as how they can affect us and have active agency (e.g. Bennett, 2010; Klepp & Bjerke, 2014; Lehtokunnas & Pyyhtinen, 2022; Mattila et al., 2019; Valtonen & Närvänen, 2015).
The prevention of food waste, like living with clothing in a 'good' manner, requires concrete hands-on actions and creative adaptations (Närvänen et al., 2018) to ensure the continuing life of fluctuating and uncontrollable materials. This fragility and instability on the part of materials are particularly important for food. Food has the potential to become inedible because eventually, all biological matter decomposes, but this may not occur, due to varying undefined and nonlinear sociomaterial practices that change the ontology of food/waste (Mattila et al., 2019). Data excerpts from a food blog illustrate how the seeds of recognising the active agency of materials and thus inviting consumers to care were sometimes present in our data.
Then, I zoomed around more [in the fridge] and noticed that the lemons were starting to show a little bit of the sign that they will soon shout 'Hosanna' [pleading for salvation] [...] The eggs, too, tried to communicate from their drawer, saying 'Hey, don't forget us.' Of course, I couldn't forget these little packages of sweetness. (Food blogger 1, blog post)
When we enact care in circular consumption, such as when preparing food from items that are close to their expiration dates, as illustrated in the data excerpt above, and commit to caring in our everyday lives, we become attentive to the perceived agency of the materials (lemons that will soon be shouting hosanna and eggs that communicate their existence). This attentive way of relating invites us to use the foodstuffs. Through care it is possible to become sensitised to the agency of objects and materials that may otherwise go unnoticed, build lively relations with them and, as a result, reduce food waste. This is not only limited to food items that are at risk of spoilage but can include caring for other things as well. One of the fashion influencers described this as follows:
I sometimes go to the recycling facility and look at the section where they have free items. There, you can find all kinds of otherwise perfectly fine things, but the previous owner didn't want to change the buttons, or there was a hole in the armpit, or there was a stain that wouldn't go away. I usually take them and use them for other things. [...] And the waste from cutting and sewing [...] I want to see how I can use my own trash...[...] Do I need to add something to it? Do I need to remove something? [...] It doesn't need to be a completely new thing, but you can also make small adjustments. (Sustainable fashion influencer 6, interview)
In this excerpt, the interviewee describes how she tinkers with clothes that have been classified as worthless or trash by others, using her competences to discover new ways of using the item. The excerpt highlights the unruly aspects of clothing as material stuff: they become stained and are subject to wear and tear. However, for a consumer committed to caring about extending the lifetimes of clothing, it is precisely this categorisation of the clothes as waste that entices her to act and transform them into something new.
In addition to the interactions described above, care as tinkering also highlights embodiment, such as the ability to utilise various materials based on one's senses, as well as familiarity with the technologies and materials used, together with an understanding that all these aspects of care are formed in a mutually interdependent and situation-specific manner. In this way, in addition to embracing the vibrant nature of materials, care as tinkering also directs our attention to experimenting and embodied know-how
about materialities and various technologies involved in using them. In the food waste cooking workshop data, the consumers had to adjust their recipes because they lacked certain ingredients they were accustomed to using or they had to consider other consumers' dietary requirements or preferences. On the other hand, according to our field notes from the cooking workshops, embodied know-how about the properties of materials helped the consumers in their tinkering efforts (e.g. coconut milk can easily replace cream, as it has similar qualities). The following data excerpt illustrates the usage of various technologies as part of caring practices for clothing:
Of course, you need to take care of your shoes more, polish and clean them and sometimes take them to a cobbler. Regarding woollen sweaters, I have a little machine that I use to remove pills, and it is really relaxing to see the pills disappear. Then, steaming is my new favourite thing. I invested in this really big, expensive steaming machine, so I steam away wrinkles. [...] And now, I've started to realise that I might bring some insects to my home that eat and destroy silk and wool, so I've started making an effort to prevent that. I've acquired this kind of [...] wood that should somehow exile these insects, and then, I put lavender oil on them and take care of them a little bit like my own kids (laughing). (Sustainable fashion influencer 3, interview)
Care as tinkering involves flexible coordination between technology, everyday doings, and human skills (Mol, 2008). Furthermore, the quote above reveals how care informs many interrelated circular practices (repairing, removing pills, steaming, and insect repelling) and how the influencer herself compares these circular practices to taking care of her children. Constant maintenance work, such as repairing or maintaining the 'good life' of clothes by experimenting with different technologies and other materials as described above, is needed to keep materials in circulation (Godfrey & Price, 2023; Godfrey et al., 2022; see also Denis & Pontille, 2015). Hands-on care work is never fully complete. As the excerpt above demonstrates, this maintenance work can be reciprocal. Engaging in care practices with the stuff of consumption and various technologies can be relaxing and enjoyable for the consumer. This also reflects how affects are involved with tinkering. Circular consumption includes multifaceted handicraft, (re)adjusting, and experimentation, as illustrated below:
It's this Chanel bag from the 80s. When I bought it, it was light beige and [...] made of very porous sheep-skin. [...] But then, somehow, some hand cream or something spilled on the bag, and then, I tried to save the situation by using leather cream on it, but I was
totally unaware that you shouldn't put leather cream on sheepskin material, especially a light-coloured one, because then it turned into a brown colour with smudges. So, then, I just had it in my closet for many years and thought about what I should do with it. Then, I took it to a cobbler and asked them if they could somehow dye it or something. So, they did something, maybe by impregnating it somehow, and made it black, [...] but the chain was in very bad shape, so I only used it without the chain. And, then, now in the summer, the lock broke. It was only, like, a button. So, I took it to a store in Helsinki that sells Chanel bags, and they sent it to France to be fixed, and they changed the lock and the chain. (Sustainable fashion influencer 1, interview)
The story of the handbag illustrated above captures the many attempts to care for the vitality of the object through continuous adjustments and experimentation, which are not always successful, leading to more adjustments. The excerpt highlights the transiency and slipperiness of materials and reveals how the balance or order achieved is always only momentary and fragile. However, continuous, persistent efforts to care lead to a repaired, cared-for handbag, rather than giving up.
To summarise, care manifests itself as 'tinkering', or concrete doings and hands-on work formed and maintained through specific network(s) of sociomaterial relations (Puig de la Bellacasa, 2010, 2017; see also Denis & Pontille, 2015; Godfrey et al., 2022; Molterer et al., 2020). While Godfrey et al. (2022) have also identified the active work of consumers as they repair consumption objects through processes of calibration and re-alignment, our findings highlight the continual 'becoming' and ontologically open nature of materials. Thus, what is considered edible or inedible, worthy or worthless, becomes situationally determined. As a result of tinkering, materials that are near to becoming spoiled or thrown away invite consumers to produce something more or something else that would not have been possible without caring (e.g. giving a new life to clothes and accessories or experimenting with food items near expiration). Thus, caring becomes both a requirement and an opportunity.
1.10.2. Care as Affective Practices
Circular consumption practices, as matters of care, are also manifested through affects and affections. Consuming clothes and cooking food both involve bodies and affects. Clothing not only covers our bodies but also shapes our identities, whereas food not only nourishes our bodies but can also bring us joy. We feel affection for both clothing and food. Here, we approach this aspect of care through the concept of 'affective practices' (Wetherell, 2012), highlighting how care, as a practice, involves an interaction between the
body and the mind. According to Wetherell (2012), an affective practice is "a figuration where body possibilities and routines become recruited or entangled together with meaning making and with other social and material figurations" (p. 19). Affective practices can appear both in established habits and routines, as well as in exceptional, spontaneous, or even one-off activities (Wetherell, 2012). This diversity is related to the ontological multiplicity of affective practices: they can be innovative and create new, quickly dissolving entities or solidly attached to social practices that constantly make them stronger (Wetherell, 2012). Focusing on affects also complements our interest in the nonhuman. Affects circulate between human and nonhuman bodies and other materialities, and this continuous movement "of being affected and to affect" can be seen as playing a part in producing embodied, sensible knowledge (Gherardi et al., 2019, p. 297), which we will discuss below.
In our data related to food waste reduction, the affective practices are primarily related to using the senses to evaluate the edibility of food items. The edibility of food is situational, flexible, and often a very personal issue. We ingest food, and it becomes a part of us and keeps us alive. Therefore, the potential inedibility and, thus, the 'wasteness' of food is also a very intimate matter. Where do we set the limits regarding when food is still edible and when is it spoiled? For those who are interested in reducing their food waste, this creates a relation to food and waste in which their embodied experiences and affects occur simultaneously. Before we taste or eat it, food is distant, outside the body. Without clear signs of spoiling, such as mould, the (in)edibility of food is merely a guess until the consumer who is cooking tastes it. This act can also be understood as a sacrifice because it requires potentially tasting something that has begun to decompose and may not only taste bad but also cause food-borne illnesses.
Cream often tends to stay in the fridge until its expiration date. However, there's no need to worry; cream usually preserves itself quite well even after its use by date. When I come across an expired carton of cream, I shake it vigorously, open it, and give it a smell, and a taste—just a small drop. In most cases, it still tastes fine, and I use it for cooking or baking as usual. Sometimes, the cream may have gone a bit sour, in which case it will also taste sour. Even then, it can be used for pastries, such as dry cakes or Aunt Hanna's biscuits [traditional Finnish pastries] or, for example, making sour milk cake instead of sour milk. Berry pies, in particular, taste particularly good when made with expired cream. (Food blogger 6, blog post)
Thus, trusting your senses and embodied knowledge can help in caring for food items. This care can be burdensome because one can never be certain that the information
gained through the senses is correct. One may still contract food poisoning. Reducing food waste thus becomes a constant balancing act of observing the hints materials provide and negotiating whether to care for one's health or for foodstuffs' lifespan.
In the context of the circular consumption of clothing, the senses of touch, sight, and smell are in focus: "I don't want to buy [second-hand clothes] if I can't try how it feels or see what kind of fabric it is [...]. I am this kind of person who... fingers, crumples, and stretches [the clothes]" (Sustainable fashion influencer 9, interview). When buying second-hand clothes, the embodied feel and fit of the clothing become important, particularly when information about the material of the clothing is missing, as the previous owner may have cut off the material tag or the text on the tag may have worn off. The information about the material, as well as the fit of the clothing, can be acquired through combining the senses of touch and sight. Thus, care as affective practice involves sensitisation and paying attention to materials and their qualities.
As affective practices are multifaceted and entangled with other social and material configurations, the actors involved in them sometimes experience ambivalent and/or difficult affects. For example, one of the interviewed food bloggers reported that the food waste reduction campaign had made her reflect on her own food/waste-related habits. Despite her continuous, skilful efforts at home, such as preparing omelettes or casseroles from food items that are at risk of being thrown away, she still struggled with forgetting them in her fridge, resulting in frustration with herself: "Every damn time I found a container there [in the fridge], I get mad at myself [and say], 'This can't be true, you did it again'" (Food blogger 3, interview).
These ambivalent affects also involve power relations that may produce unpleasant experiences that are strong enough to stay in the memory for years to come. For example, a food blogger remembers a childhood event in which caring for food, as an affective practice, becomes entangled with the embodied experience of eating food that has passed into (in)edibility and the expectation that well-behaved children would not defy their grandmother: "My grandmother, for example, peeled the mould off and then offered it to us. Well, the whole jam tasted like mould. [...] But at that time, we were so kind that we ate it" (Food blogger 4, interview).
In addition, affective practices are also connected to the passage of time and the history of materials and objects. This is evident in the context of second-hand clothes. In the following extract, one of the interviewed sustainable fashion influencers describes how wearing one of her favourite second-hand garments takes her back to the place where she bought the item.
I feel that somehow the most cherished and loved second-hand fashion garments are always related to some [place]... like, I was then in Paris and I found this from there, and then, I somehow relive those moments [...] from these, I get this kind of a special feeling, like usually with second-hand clothes, that this is a unique piece and nobody else has the same one. (Sustainable fashion influencer 9, interview)
Here, embodied imagination (Joy & Sherry, 2003) and memory create feelings of a garment being unique and special, thus inviting additional care. The excerpt also emphasises the connectedness between consumers and the stuff of consumption. The garments are cared for because they are tied to a specific location. Material objects can thus carry the emotions and affects accumulated within them during their lifecycles (Kuruoğlu & Ger, 2015). The material details of the garment are not incidental to care but, rather, enact it.
Furthermore, smelling second-hand clothes creates an embodied experience of the previous owner(s) for the new owner. The smell of perfumes or cigarettes on clothes is an obvious example, but the data also show how scents related to washing create affective practices. The washing practices enacted by consumers may be a way to remove traces of previous owners from garments, while others avoid unnecessary washing to care for the material and the environment. A sustainable fashion influencer began a conversation on her Instagram account regarding why scented laundry detergents and fabric softeners should be avoided, as they complicate the afterlives of clothes by creating allergic reactions and lowering their resale value. The affective practices related to this were apparent in the audience comments:
A relative brought a bag of used children's clothes for us. Because I have been advocating for a couple of years that please, [there are to be] no more smelly clothes for us, she said immediately that these don't smell. Damn, they did smell! I washed everything four or five times and used vinegar as a softener. For the clothes that smelled the most, I also soaked them in vinegar a couple of times. As a result, only a fraction of the clothes ended up being used, and the rest had to be sent to textile recycling. I was too ashamed to give them away and cause trouble for someone else. All this washing negates all the ecological benefits of this form of recycling. (Audience comment on sustainable fashion influencer 8's Instagram post)
The excerpt shows how affective practices of caring relate to power relations, history, and embodied experiences. They highlight the challenges and trade-offs actors make in their attempts to care, included those related to caring for other humans/bodies. Other ethical commitments may thus contradict the pursuit of circular
consumption, which is sometimes full of contradictions and misaligned goals (Lehtokunnas et al., 2022).
Care, as an affective practice, also involves affection. Developing caring relations with objects creates affection and attachment, making it more difficult to discard them. For example, in our datasets related to food waste prevention, growing food creates an appreciation for it and, thus, also discourages wasting it. Furthermore, in the context of clothing, the fashion influencers described their favourite clothes as objects they have special relationships with:
I only have favourites in my closet at the moment. [...] I want a life where I always wear my favourite clothes. I want to feel good. [...] Even then, when I have to discard a piece of clothing, I prefer to give up the industrially produced garment first. I somehow become attached to the self-made ones. They have so much more character. I have sensitive skin because of my illness, so I cannot wear anything that is very rough in texture. It needs to be soft so that I feel good. It will not be a favourite if it is too rough. [...] I don't want a garment that I can just throw away after using it once, because it doesn't feel like anything. It needs to make you think [about] whether you actually want to discard it. What kind of a story does the garment tell me? (Sustainable fashion influencer 6, interview)
This quotation also illustrates that in creating a relationship with the object, the object itself has active agency. It is described as having more character and telling a story to the consumer. Thus, the affectionate relationship is about not only the consumer caring for the clothes but also the clothes caring for their owner (e.g. clothes create good feelings, and their soft texture protects the owner's sensitive skin).
To summarise, care is manifested as 'affective practices' (Wetherell, 2012), involving dynamic interaction between the body and the mind. Affects are not predetermined. They are in constant flow and open to change. In circular consumption, changes in everyday practices are often required, and our perspective suggests that these can be achieved through care as an affective practice. As a part of affective practices, affection with objects is created, as consumers come to be affected by materials. Forming an affective bond with someone or something, which is required for care, involves not only valuing materials differently but also (re)combining them. Quoting Latour (2004, p. 205, italics original), "to have a body is to learn to be affected, meaning 'effectuated' moved, put into motion by other entities, humans or non-humans". Indeed, our findings resonate with other researchers who have also argued for paying attention to the role of 'affective encounters' in making consumers (not) take responsibility for various social issues (Bajde & Rojas-Gaviria, 2021).
1.10.3. Care as Ethico-Political Action
Care is situated at the interface of the public and private (Fisher & Tronto, 1990). For example, care through food/waste management at home is also subject to public scrutiny and normative expectations—"who does caring through food and how it is done" (Meah & Jackson, 2017, p. 2077, italics original). Therefore, an emphasis on the ethico-political dimensions of care dismantles the dichotomy between public and private. It also allows us to reevaluate what is considered private and personal, as well as what is considered public and collective, in relation to ethical action. Here, we build on the feminist notion that 'the personal is political', in which personal ethico-political practices are understood as collective. People change their everyday personal habits in relation to the collective, not individually (Puig de la Bellacasa, 2010, p. 157).
In our datasets, the food waste reduction campaign is an empirical example of such ethico-political action. The original idea behind the campaign was to approach the food waste issue in a positive manner, and it was experienced as welcoming and exciting among the blog community (Närvänen et al., 2018). Consequently, the campaign quickly spread among food bloggers, and many of them mentioned becoming aware of the problematic food waste issue and the amount of food waste produced at homes only after the launch of the campaign. This type of commonality was also apparent in the cooking workshops. The consumers who participated in these workshops reported that they had begun recognising food waste as an issue based on their own observations of how much edible food was thrown away while they were, for example, working in hospitals, retail stores, and/or schools or eating at buffet restaurants. According to Puig de la Bellacasa (2011, pp. 89–90), caring includes the idea of proximal doings and interventions, not only caring for/with somebody or something from a distance. For many consumers, personal experiences had led to changing their everyday lives. They emphasised the need to do something concrete, rather than merely thinking or talking:
It does not change anything that you write every year that now X kilos [of food] go to waste, because it [preventing food waste] is largely about know-how and awareness [...]. There's this problem with food waste that nobody can disagree with it in principle—it is the world's best topic for hypocrites—you can get a million likes for posting about retailers' obligation to donate food for charity, but then, when you yourself should do something about it, then, how many people actually act? (Food blogger 6, interview)
Therefore, changes in attitude are not sufficient for circular consumption to be enacted as care. Instead, this requires concrete material doings (e.g. Evans, 2018; Godfrey et al.,
2022), which are not always easy or within one's comfort zone. Similarly, for the sustainable fashion influencers, the first step was often to make their private consumption practices, such as buying second-hand clothes, more public through social media. This is illustrated in the following excerpt:
I thought that if I just shared photos of my [second-hand] findings so that people would see the kinds of things you can find at a flea market, then perhaps they would be inspired to visit flea markets themselves and buy used clothes. (Sustainable fashion influencer 2, interview)
In this way, both food bloggers and sustainable fashion influencers explicitly wanted to share their best practices with a broader audience and, consequently, act as role models and educators for improved sustainability (Mesiranta et al., 2021; Närvinen et al., 2018). For some fashion influencers, this ethico-political action developed into a significant part of their activities, and they began intentionally changing others' practices by, for example, sharing and editing information and making it more palatable for the public:
I wanted to share the kind of low-threshold knowledge [...] if somebody does not have the interest and time to read books about it or find out more. [...] This is a journey that you need to make. [...] I encourage them to start somewhere. (Sustainable fashion influencer 9, interview)
These examples show that care as ethico-political action is not a distinct, abstract sphere. Rather, it is embedded in concrete practices and, through them, changes the way we think, feel, and commit to ethical principles (Puig de la Bellacasa, 2010, pp. 159–160), thus emphasising the importance of including the stuff, technologies, and devices of consumption when studying care within circular consumption.
A central aspect of caring as ethico-political action is who or what we include in its sphere. Thus, according to Puig de la Bellacasa (2010, 2017), the starting point for care is to understand the relationality and interdependence of nature, culture, technology, people, animals, and plants. This refutes the notion of only humans having agency while acknowledging that people's actions have historically had consequences and will have them in the future. In our datasets, caring for food and clothing was related to concern for the planet and the kind of world that is created for future generations. This extends caring beyond consumption objects, materials, and waste to include other-than-human things and creatures. For example, in the food waste datasets, there was an abundance of talk about caring for the human members of the family, as well as animals, such as pets. Questions about and negotiations of social and economic sustainability (e.g. caring for textile industry workers in developing countries or small
entrepreneurs in one's home country) emerged in discussions of circular clothing consumption. For example, one of the sustainable fashion influencers had innovated a tool with which to prioritise values when purchasing clothes:
So, where should you buy your clothes, textiles, and accessories then when everything is wrong and there's nothing for plus-sized consumers anywhere? I presented in my Youtube lecture in 2020 a hierarchy of sustainable purchasing, which tells you how I recommend you to go through stores in order to find what you need. [...] The list is more like a continuum between really good and extremely bad choices, rather than only good/bad. I have put together this list according to whether it is likely that the company is responsible in any way or who owns the company, where do they manufacture their products, and how much of their business pays taxes to Finland (economic responsibility) when you buy from them. (Sustainable fashion influencer 8, Instagram post)
As the aspects of sustainability are very complex, she instructs everyone to consider their own values and which criteria are the most important to them personally. Thus, this excerpt shows that it is not possible to care for everything at the same time to the same degree. Choosing to care for some things, people, and phenomena means excluding others (Fisher & Tronto, 1990; Puig de la Bellacasa, 2012). In their everyday lives, consumers must constantly negotiate these inclusions and exclusions.
To summarise, care manifests as ethico-political action, dismantling established dichotomies between the public and the private (Fisher & Tronto, 1990) and placing an emphasis on material doings that are politically and ethically laden (Puig de la Bellacasa, 2011). Our findings illustrate the interplay of private and public practices in initiating social change. Both food bloggers and sustainable fashion influencers use social media to make their private practices more public and inspire others. Following Puig de la Bellacasa (2017), we also highlight how the 'ethics' in the ethics of care are not about moral obligations but, rather, "thick, impure, involvement in a world where the question of how to care needs to be posed" (p. 6). In the last section of the article, we discuss the findings and their implications.
1.11. Discussion and Conclusions
In this article, we have sought to address the question of how circular consumption practices are enacted as matters of care. By adopting a thinking-with-theory approach (Jackson & Mazzei, 2013), we have combined analytical insights derived from posthuman theorising on care (Mol, 2008, 2021; Puig de la Bellacasa, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2017,
2019) with ethnographic materials derived from Finnish frontrunner consumers' circular consumption of food and clothing. The empirical contexts of food and clothing enabled us to show how care is enacted close to the consumer, on our skin and in our bodies. As a result, we have identified three dimensions of care—tinkering, affective practices, and ethico-political action—that highlight how humans and nonhumans become entangled in relations of care within circular consumption practices. Even though it has been argued that we are living in a structurally careless world (Chatzidakis et al., 2020), we have shown that care is still prominent in everyday interactions between consumers and materials, especially for frontrunner consumers. By focusing on them, we have indicated that care invites and cultivates circular consumption in various ways.
Our study contributes to CE literature on circular consumption. First, by examining care in circular consumption, we extend earlier studies on consumer work and circular practices in the CE (Hobson et al., 2021; Korsunova et al., 2022; Rabiu & Jaeger-Erben, 2022, 2024; Sutcliffe, 2022). Our findings highlight how circular consumption practices are interconnected and should be addressed holistically rather than by focusing on isolated practices (see also Greene et al., 2024; Rabiu & Jaeger-Erben, 2022). For example, caring for second-hand clothes may involve a great deal of washing simply to remove unpleasant odours, which may wear out those clothes, potentially resulting in a shorter lifespan. In a similar vein, food waste prevention is closely connected to practices that are not primarily circular, such as taking care of the family or one's health. These interconnections between practices may result in rebound effects and trade-offs between practices (see also Greene et al., 2024; Rabiu & Jaeger-Erben, 2022). Our chosen perspective—circular consumption practices as matters of care—allows us to examine circular practices holistically. The circular practices of frontrunner consumers are thus guided by and coordinated with the care given and received in mutual interactions between humans and nonhumans.
Our findings also highlight, in line with the previous studies, the fact that circular consumption requires constant effort in the form of tinkering, affective practices, or ethico-political action. We have chosen to study frontrunner consumers who already have integrated circular practices into their lives, but even so, they perceive them as laborious and even troublesome. For example, sometimes circular consumption becomes a struggle against unpleasant bodily sensations. At other times, consumers must rely on embodied knowledge to care. This emphasises the situatedness and proximity of caring. Caring is not easy, and it connotes "the acceptance of some form of burden" (Tronto, 1993, p. 103). However, our study also highlights how circular consumption, when enacted as care, invites consumers to engage in concrete doings with materials to extend their lifetimes. The
disposition of care makes the work conducted meaningful. Also, care as tinkering can include constant creative adaptations (see also Korsunova et al., 2022; Molterer et al., 2020; Närvänen et al., 2018), and especially when successful, it is rewarding and can create affectionate relations with materials through affective practices.
Our study has focused on a group of consumers in an affluent society in which finding meaningfulness for this extra, unpaid work is a requirement for its existence (cf. Sutcliffe, 2022). For these types of consumers, meaningfulness relates to sharing private consumption practices publicly as a form of collective effort and ethico-political action. We acknowledge that for consumers in emerging economies, consumer work in CE may entail types of care that are motivated by survival (Korsunova et al., 2022). Thus, we also call for more research on diverse consumer groups. Furthermore, our findings suggest that this 'work' of care is not dependent on human aspirations but, rather, becomes enacted in close relations with nonhumans.
Second, we provide further insights into the ethical and moral aspects of circular consumption. It has been argued that a CE is a moral economy (Gregson et al., 2015). Our findings extend previous studies showing that circular consumption involves ethical considerations (Conduit et al., 2023; Lehtokunnas et al., 2022). Our findings highlight the fact that despite consumers having an internal moral desire (Conduit et al., 2023) or a constituted moral project (Lehtokunnas et al., 2022), the ethics of circular consumption only become tangible, or 'real', when enacted in mundane, situated negotiations of various goods and bads. We offer a nuanced understanding of these negotiations, which take place in specific situations, and we recognise agency beyond humans. Despite their efforts to act ethically, consumers in a CE must form relations with vibrant materials that are constantly changing. As our findings illustrate, materials (e.g. lemons, cream, mould, leather, pill remover, and washing detergent) invite consumers to establish caring relations or, sometimes, resist consumers' efforts to engage in circular consumption practices, thus creating relations with one another that further complicate these practices. Our study thus redefines the ethics of circular consumption as matters of care by shifting the focus away from individual consumer agency.
Third, we bring a sociomaterial perspective to both the circular consumption and ethics of care literatures. Recent conceptualisations of care in consumption have identified multiple stakeholders involved, from individual people to organisations at various levels of society (Chatzidakis & Shaw, 2018; Chatzidakis et al., 2020; Parsons et al., 2021a; Pizzetti et al., 2024). Our findings extend this view by elevating nonhumans to the status of crucial stakeholders in care relations of circular consumption. They are not only targets of care (care receivers) but also caregivers. From
the perspective of CE, materials are seen as having certain lifetimes, and their lives depend on the care given to them during this lifespan. The circular consumption literature has also viewed human actors as active in taking care of materials, for example, as stewards (Conduit et al., 2023), repairers (Godfrey et al., 2022), or workers (Hobson et al., 2021). From another perspective, which we highlight in this article, materials are also taking care of humans by meeting our basic needs, such as food, warmth, safety (see also Waight & Boyer, 2018), and the satisfaction of 'living sustainably'. Consequently, circular consumption is an accomplishment of both human and nonhuman beings in care assemblages. Consumption has been increasingly theorised as involving assemblages (Canniford & Bajde, 2015), for example, family assemblages (Epp et al., 2014) and animate assemblages involving nonhuman animals (Grant et al., 2024). These studies highlight how consumption becomes constituted through multiple, complex, momentary relations between humans and nonhumans. Drawing from Puig de la Bellacasa's (2017) notion of care assemblages, our findings show that care begins in the middle: within webs of consumers, things, and devices, meaning that care is always incomplete, constantly in a state of becoming and having the possibility of becoming interrupted. By empirically examining everyday interactions with nonhumans, we broaden the view of care. It is no longer merely a moral property of individuals but includes mundane, reciprocal sociomaterial actions. Our study is thus the first to bring attention to materials' vibrant, active agency in everyday mundane circular consumption.
Our study has important practical and political implications. The more-than-human ethics of care offers a radically different perspective as compared to the technocentric visions that are prevalent in the CE literature and among practitioners (see also Hobson et al., 2021). Transitioning into a CE is not only about consumers adopting business models and technologies invented at a distance but also mundane work that involves affective ethical considerations. Our chosen care approach redefines consumers' relationships to CE businesses by highlighting how CE-related businesses and services enable care. Many of the existing CE businesses are connected to isolated and context-specific CE practices, such as rescuing leftover food from restaurants or buying second-hand clothes through mobile applications. For these solutions to enable circularity, they require consumer coordination in the form of integrating them with other circular and everyday practices. If businesses focused on holistic care, for example, by offering solutions that would reduce the effort required to juggle everyday circular life, they could facilitate the transition to a CE. However, there is a risk that these marketised care solutions create various inequalities and exploitation effects. Chatzidakis et al. (2024) have recently argued that affective reconnection is needed to complement marketised care in order "to maintain meaningful, emotional
and affective bonds with others" (p. 10). As suggested by these researchers, joint efforts involving various types of actors, such as non-profit organisations and local communities, can help balance marketised care. Examples of this within circular consumption include repair cafés, clothes-swapping events, and community fridges for sharing leftover food in the neighbourhood. Community-based aspects of circular consumption have recently been highlighted (for a review, see Luukkonen et al., 2024), and the role of local communities in adopting and appropriating circular consumption and care should be further examined. Frontrunner consumers may have a significant role to play in establishing these communities and crafting policies that are built from the bottom-up and aligned with their everyday lives. This may result in relevant grassroots innovations for the CE transition (see also Greene et al., 2024). Our study highlights the fact that affective bonds should involve more-than-humans. In the future, CE companies could, for example, enable the tracking of materials or objects that would make the history of the material/object visible for the consumer. Likewise, policymakers could facilitate this shift by supporting these initiatives. The current consumption society is plagued by meaningless consumerism because the constant purchasing of new items no longer creates happiness (Greene et al., 2024). Circular consumption practices as matters of care points in a different direction, one in which meaning can be found in caring for items. The circulation of mundane objects causes emotions and affects to accumulate (Kuruoğlu & Ger, 2015), including material empathy (Godfrey & Price, 2023), impacting the bonds created between consumers and materials/objects in circular consumption. Also, companies and policymakers can nurture these bonds, supporting a cultural and political shift away from consumerism. Inspired by the feminist ethos 'the personal is political', we hope that our study inspires future businesses, policymakers, and other actors to replace convenient, top-down CE solutions with meaningful, bottom-up caring relations.
Our research suggests several pathways for future research. Our study involves frontrunner consumers who are already far along in their journey towards circularity, but we have not focused on how they became frontrunners initially. It will be important to study the contexts, pathways, and biographic experiences leading to someone becoming a frontrunner in circular consumption (see also Greene & Royston, 2022). This is especially important because the role of frontrunners in conducting ethico-political forms of care—inviting also others to care—may be important in the wider appropriation of circular practices. Furthermore, the contexts of food waste and clothing are traditionally perceived as feminine areas of consumption. In other circular consumption contexts, frontrunner consumers may be very different. However, we argue that the framework presented in this article may still be applicable to circular consumption
more broadly. For example, fixing and repairing electronics or using rental and sharing services can be assumed to involve care as tinkering, affective practices, and ethico-political action. The exact nature of these dimensions is, of course, context dependent.
While we have shown that the care assemblages in circular consumption involve a multitude of human and more-than-human creatures and things, our analysis has not focused on nonhuman animals, which feature in care assemblages as well. In other contexts, it has been argued that consumers may enter into relations of mutual becoming with nonhuman animals, such as fly fishers with fish and their natural environment (Grant et al., 2024). Such caring stewardship shares similarities with what we propose regarding non-living materials in circular consumption. Therefore, we invite future research to focus on ‘companion species’ (Haraway, 2008, see also Bettany & Daly, 2008) and ‘animal products’ (Dickstein et al., 2020; Koskinen, 2023b) because nonhuman animals’ relations with humans are (re-)imagined (see also Sayers et al., 2022) and (re-)negotiated through caring relations of circular consumption. Furthermore, our article focused on the consumption domains of food and clothing, and it may be interesting for future research to consider, for example, electronics and furniture as caregivers and care receivers. As consumers, we often have very close relationships with our electronics, such as smartphones, but these are often put in desk drawers to make way for newer ones. We invite researchers to unpack these dynamics of care practices across various domains of circularity. The theoretical and methodological tools adopted in this article also allow more-than-human actors to be considered in research on circular consumption. Additionally, our article sends the message that consumers should have hope in the future because their everyday actions, even the tiniest ones, do matter.
Funding Open access funding provided by Tampere University (including Tampere University Hospital). The research received funding from the Foundation for Economic Education (under Grant Agreement No 190290), the Emil Aaltonen Foundation, and the Horizon Europe funded project CARE: The Circular consumption Activities to Transform households towards material Efficiency (under Grant Agreement No. 101135141). In addition, the third author of this article acknowledges the funding received from the Ella and Georg Ehrnrooth Foundation.
1.12. Declarations
Conflict of interest The authors have no relevant financial or non-financial interests to disclose.
Ethical approval All procedures performed in studies involving human participants were in accordance with the ethical standards of the institutional research committee and with the 1964 Helsinki declaration and its later amendments or comparable ethical standards.
Informal consent Informal consent was obtained from all individual participants included in the study.
Open Access This article is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License, which permits use, sharing, adaptation, distribution and reproduction in any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to the original author(s) and the source, provide a link to the Creative Commons licence, and indicate if changes were made. The images or other third party material in this article are included in the article's Creative Commons licence, unless indicated otherwise in a credit line to the material. If material is not included in the article's Creative Commons licence and your intended use is not permitted by statutory regulation or exceeds the permitted use, you will need to obtain permission directly from the copyright holder. To view a copy of this licence, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/.
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